Q. Do you sell paint and primer combined?
A. The short answer is yes. Several of our paints have this on their label. However, nearly all premium paints can lay claim to this feature when painting over an existing paint or doing some basic painting. If you read the label on these paints, it does recommend using a primer when drastically changing colors or using on difficult substrates. Primer is a better “glue” for bonding, better at color and stain blocking, and is also less costly than paint. Most times using a primer is still the best option, if only for cost effectiveness.
Q. How do I know if it is too cold to paint, stain, or caulk outside?
A. Air and surface temperature should be above 50 degrees for a few hours before and after application for most products to attain proper drying. Our Clark+Kensington exterior paint can be applied down to 35 degrees. Benjamin Moore exterior paints recommend 40 degrees.
Q. What are the different paint sheens?
A. The dullest sheen is flat, then eggshell, satin, semi-gloss, and high gloss. The lower the sheen; the more it hides the wall imperfections, the higher the sheen; the easier it is to clean. The most popular is currently eggshell.
Q. Can I wash flat paint?
A. Most flat paints do not clean well at all. We do have many exceptions in stock, such as our Benjamin Moore Aura and Regal Select, and Clark+Kensington enamels, Valspar Aspire and Optimus.
Q. How do I cover smoke, water, or pet stains?
A. An oil or shellac based primer does an excellent job of blocking stains from bleeding through a top coat of paint. These can also be used on a subfloor to cover pet accident odor before re-carpeting.
Q. How can I get rid of mold or mildew?
A. Usually a bleach and water mixture will clean mold. However, we do have several less caustic products that work as well, such as Concrobium Mold Control, Moldex, and Mold Armor.
Q. What type of paint can I use in a bathroom?
A. If mold or mildew is a problem, Zinsser Perma-White (tint-able in light to medium colors) is a great product to use for inhibiting mold from re-growing. Otherwise, a high quality eggshell or satin enamel will work fine. Remember, when painting a bathroom, try to avoid hot steamy showers in the room for about a week to allow the paint to begin curing.
Q. Can I paint my kitchen cabinets?
A. Yes. This is a rather inexpensive way to drastically alter the look of your kitchen. Clean them well of oils and greases, apply a great bonding primer (such as Zinsser BIN which rarely requires sanding), and top coat with a high quality paint. We recommend Benjamin Moore Advance or Ace “Cabinet, Door, and Trim” paint, an oil/latex mixture that dries slowly to a very hard finish like an oil paint, but has little odor and cleans up with soap and water like a latex paint.
Q. What are VOC’s?
A. Volatile Organic Compounds are what is in paint that evaporates as it is drying. Usually the lower the VOC’s in paint, the lesser the smell. Regulations continue to reduce the amounts of these in paint. Currently, all of our latex paint is considered low VOC and Benjamin Moore and Valspar lines are
zero VOC. All of our colorant is now
zero VOC as well, which is an industry leading trend.
Q. What is the best way to clean my brushes?
A. Latex paint usually cleans well with soap and water immediately after use, but fabric softener and water works even better. Oil paints clean with paint thinner. Shellac based products use denatured alcohol. Always check what is recommended to use on the product label.
Q. What is the easiest way to remove wallpaper?
A. Hopefully the wallpaper was sized properly when it was installed to make removal easier. Remove any paper that peels easily first. If the paper is a thick vinyl, score the paper to gain access to the glue. You can then apply a water and fabric softener solution to release the glue. If this doesn’t work use a product such as Dif or Chomp. If these don’t work, you may need to use a steamer, which we have available to rent. You will then scrape the paper and the glue off with a scraper or putty knife, making sure you are careful not to gouge the plaster or drywall. Finally, scrub with hot water to remove all glue and cleaning residue and you are ready to resurface your wall!
Q. Why should I buy a more expensive applicator?
A. The higher quality brushes and roller covers load and release paint much better, they hold more paint, and they don’t leave those nasty bristles or roller fuzz on your wall. This makes them easier to use and your job looks better. The increase in cost is well worth your reduced frustration at the end of the day.
Q. Why do I have to do all that recommended prep work?
A. The reason paint fails is most often because of improper preparation. We need to clean the surface to avoid painting dirt, dust, and grease instead of the wood or drywall. Scuffing or sanding the surface gives the new paint some tiny rough edges to grab and bond to. Please follow the instructions on the paint label.
Q. Can I paint my vinyl or aluminum siding?
A. Absolutely. Exterior latex paint bonds to both of these substrates beautifully. However, you should never paint vinyl siding a darker color than it currently is. A darker color might absorb more heat than it was manufactured to tolerate, causing it to fail.
Q. Can I redo my hardwood floors?
A. Yes, and we would be happy to walk you through the project, from renting a sander to staining and finishing, but be forewarned, it is an extensive and tedious project and not for the faint of heart.